The windlass is one of the most used equipment on board a boat. Responsible for lifting the anchor and its chain, often under difficult conditions, it is subject to the repeated assaults of salt water, sand and significant mechanical efforts. A poorly maintained windlass can not only break down at the most critical moment, but also compromise the safety of the entire crew. Regular maintenance of this equipment is therefore not an option, but an absolute necessity for any responsible boater. Whether electric or manual, horizontal or vertical, each windlass requires particular attention and specific maintenance procedures. In this comprehensive article, we will explore in detail all facets of windlass maintenance, from simple daily actions to more technical interventions, so that you can keep your equipment in perfect working condition for many years of sailing with confidence.
What is a windlass and what is it used for?
Definition and role of windlass on a boat
The windlass is a winch specially designed to raise and lower the anchor and its chain. Generally installed at the front of the boat, on the deck, it is the essential equipment for mooring maneuvers. Its main role is to facilitate the recovery of the anchor, a task that would be extremely painful, if not impossible, to be carried out manually on medium to large boats, given the considerable weight of the chain and the anchor. The windlass also makes it possible to precisely control the descent of the anchor during anchoring, thus avoiding an uncontrolled unfolding of the chain that could damage the equipment or injure the crew. Beyond these essential functions, the windlass contributes directly to the safety of the boat by allowing reliable anchoring and by facilitating rapid set-up in case of emergency.
Differences between electric windlass and manual windlass
The manual windlass works thanks to the muscular force of the user who operates a crank. This solution, which is economical and reliable because it does not depend on any electrical system, is particularly suitable for small units and shallow moorings. It has the advantage of requiring no power supply and remaining operational even in the event of a battery failure. On the other hand, its use quickly becomes difficult on boats longer than eight meters or in large depths. The electric windlass, on the other hand, is powered by the batteries on board and activates the anchor at the touch of a button, either from a fixed desk or via a remote control. This solution offers incomparable ease of use and makes it possible to manage much heavier anchor-chain assemblies without physical effort. However, it requires a rigorous electrical installation, increased monitoring of energy consumption and more elaborate maintenance including electronic components and the motor.
The main types of windlasses (horizontal, vertical)
Two windlass configurations are mainly distinguished according to the orientation of their axis of rotation. The horizontal windlass has an axis parallel to the bridge, with the sprocket visible on the surface. This arrangement greatly facilitates maintenance since all the important elements remain accessible without complex dismantling. The horizontal windlass is particularly suitable for boats with sufficient space on the front deck. Conversely, the vertical windlass has an axis perpendicular to the bridge, with the motor and the majority of the mechanisms installed under the bridge, in the mooring boat or the anchor box. This configuration offers the advantage of optimizing space on the deck and better protecting mechanical components from spray and weather. In contrast, access for maintenance often requires working in confined spaces under the bridge. Each type has its specific advantages, and the choice depends essentially on the configuration of the boat, the space available, and the owner's preferences for accessibility for maintenance.
Why maintain your windlass regularly?
Crew and boat safety
Safety is the fundamental reason for thorough windlass maintenance. A windlass that fails during an emergency mooring, for example in the event of rapidly deteriorating weather, can put the crew and the boat in a critical situation. Let's imagine a scenario where the wind increases and you have to set sail quickly to reach a safer shelter: a broken windlass then leaves you with an anchor at the bottom and limited means to retrieve it manually in difficult conditions. A worn sprocket can also let the chain run uncontrollably, creating a risk of serious injury to anyone in the vicinity. Corroded electrical connections can cause short circuits or even fires in confined spaces under the bridge. Preventive maintenance eliminates these risks by identifying potential problems before they become dangerous. A well-maintained windlass responds immediately to stresses, thus making it possible to react effectively to the unexpected events inherent in navigation.
Performance and reliability at anchor
A properly maintained windlass ensures smooth and predictable mooring maneuvers. When all components are clean, well lubricated, and in good condition, the windlass operates quietly, without jerks or jams. This reliability turns daily anchorages into simple and fast operations, avoiding the stress and frustration associated with finicky equipment. Optimal performance also results in controlled power consumption on electric windlass, because a dirty or poorly lubricated mechanism forces the motor to work more intensely, draining the batteries unnecessarily. In addition, a powerful windlass raises the chain at a constant and controlled speed, greatly facilitating the precise positioning of the boat when mooring. This regularity allows the team member in charge of the maneuver to anticipate movements and adapt their position safely. The reliability gained through regular maintenance also provides valuable peace of mind, especially on remote cruises where access to repair services may be limited.
Extending the life of the equipment
Investing in a quality windlass is a significant expense for any boat owner. Regular and methodical maintenance is the best way to protect this investment by significantly extending the life of the equipment. Well-lubricated mechanical parts wear out much more slowly, electrical components protected from corrosion maintain their conductivity and integrity, and properly inspected structures reveal signs of fatigue before they cause complete failure. A sprocket replaced on time costs infinitely less than a complete windlass damaged by a worn sprocket that would have let the chain slide repeatedly. Likewise, an electric motor that is maintained regularly can work for fifteen to twenty years, while a neglected motor, exposed to moisture and corrosion, may require replacement after only five to seven years. This difference represents a substantial saving that far exceeds the time and cost invested in preventive maintenance.
Preventing costly breakdowns
Windlass breakdowns rarely occur without warning signs. Regular maintenance makes it possible to detect these weak signals before they turn into major failures. A slight backlash in the gears, detected during a routine inspection, can be corrected by simply adjusting or replacing an inexpensive wear part. If we neglect it, this game gradually increases until it damages the entire gear train, requiring a complete replacement of the mechanism at a cost ten times greater. Likewise, a slightly oxidized electrical connection, cleaned in time, will continue to perform its role for years. Left unattended, this oxidation progresses until it creates excessive resistance causing heating and then failure of the relay or circuit breaker. Emergency interventions, often necessary in high season and sometimes carried out in expensive marinas during unexpected stops, put a heavy strain on the navigation budget. Preventive maintenance transforms these unpredictable expenses into planned and controlled investments.
How often do you maintain a windlass?
Routine maintenance after each use
After each sea trip, especially if you have wet, a few simple actions can help preserve your windlass. Rinsing with fresh water is the fundamental operation to be carried out systematically. Saltwater, sand and organic particles accumulated during navigation immediately begin their corrosive and abrasive action. A simple jet of fresh water generously applied to the windlass, sprocket, and chain removes these residues before they cause damage. This operation only takes a few minutes but makes a considerable difference in the longevity of the equipment. Also, take advantage of this time to do a quick visual inspection, looking for unusual marks, loose fasteners, or obvious signs of wear and tear. This daily vigilance makes it possible to quickly identify emerging anomalies. If you are navigating in waters that are particularly rich in sediment or algae, increase the intensity of the rinse and check that nothing has got stuck in the squid. Those few minutes of attention after each use represent the most profitable maintenance investment.
Periodic maintenance (monthly, seasonal)
Monthly maintenance deepens the checks and adds more technical operations. Spend one to two hours every month thoroughly inspecting your windlass. Examine the sprocket carefully for signs of wear in the cells that guide the chain. These cells must maintain their original shape to maintain a firm grip on the links. Also check the condition of the chain itself, looking for links that are deformed, corroded, or show signs of fatigue. Check all fastenings to the bridge with an appropriate wrench, as repeated vibration and effort can gradually loosen the bolts. On electric windlass, inspect the electrical connections, tighten the lugs if necessary, and apply a thin layer of special grease to protect the contacts from oxidation. Lubrication of moving parts is also part of this monthly maintenance, making sure to use products adapted to marine environments. On a seasonal scale, generally at the beginning and at the end of the intensive navigation period, carry out a complete assessment including a functional test under real load to verify that the power and the ascent speed correspond to the manufacturer's specifications.
Annual or winter maintenance
Annual or winter maintenance is an opportunity for a complete and thorough revision of your windlass. Take advantage of the boat's winterization to carry out the most important maintenance operations that require time and a comfortable working environment. Start with a partial dismantling to allow access to the internal components: gears, bearings, and transmission systems. Clean all parts meticulously, remove old greases that have become sticky or contaminated, and examine each item for signs of wear or fatigue. The bearings should rotate freely without excessive play, the gears should not have any broken or excessively worn teeth, and the axles should not show any deformation. Preventively replace wearing parts even if they still appear to be functional when they approach their manufacturer's recommended use limit. On electric windlass, dismantle and inspect the motor, check the condition of the brushes and manifold, clean the connections, and test the electrical insulation. This winter maintenance is also an ideal time to apply additional protections if the boat remains exposed to the elements during wintering.
The key steps in maintaining a windlass
Windlass cleaning
Rinsing with fresh water after navigation
Rinsing with fresh water is the first line of defense against corrosion and fouling on your windlass. After each trip out to sea, arm yourself with a garden hose or a bucket of fresh water and rinse the entire windlass generously. Start with the sprocket by slowly rotating the windlass to rinse out any cells where sand and residue accumulate. Continue with the body of the windlass, focusing on areas where seawater has accumulated and dried up leaving salt deposits. Don't forget the side sections, the accessible underside of the windlass, and the base for attaching to the bridge. For vertical windlass, do not hesitate to go down under the bridge to also rinse the parts submerged in the anchor box. Use moderate water pressure to avoid forcing water into seals and bearings, while being energetic enough to effectively dislodge residue. If possible, do this rinsing while the chain is still rising, thus allowing the chain and sprocket to be cleaned simultaneously. Fresh water dissolves and removes salt crystals before they permanently attach to metal surfaces.
Removal of salt, sand and residues
Beyond simple rinsing, some situations require more thorough cleaning to remove stubborn build-up. Crystallized salt, especially after several days of intensive navigation, sometimes forms a whitish crust on metal surfaces and in the corners of the mechanism. Then use a soft brush or a non-abrasive sponge soaked in fresh water to gently scrub these deposits. The soft-bristled nylon brushes are ideal for cleaning sprocket cells without scratching the metal. The sand accumulated in the moving parts requires special care because its abrasive properties can quickly damage the surfaces in contact. Manually rotate the windlass while cleaning to remove these particles from every nook and cranny. Organic residues such as seaweed or broken shells must also be removed as they promote moisture retention and accelerate corrosion. For particularly stubborn dirt, you can use a mild degreasing product specific to the marine environment, making sure to rinse thoroughly after application. Absolutely avoid aggressive or acidic products that would attack protective surfaces and joints.
Visual and mechanical inspection
Sprocket and drum check
The sprocket represents the main wear part of the windlass, the one that is directly subjected to the mechanical stresses of the chain. Carefully inspect its cells, these profiled grooves that follow the shape of chain links. With wear, these cells gradually lose their original profile, become smoother and shallower. Place a chain link in each cell and check that it fits securely without excessive play. A worn sprocket lets the chain slide slightly into the cells, producing jolts during ascent and reducing load capacity. Also, look for signs of metal chipping, cracks, or deformations that would indicate structural fatigue. The drum, used to wind a textile cable, deserves the same attention. Check that the surface is smooth and free of burrs that could damage the cable. Inspect the side flanges that guide the smooth rolling of the rope, making sure that there is no deformation. A drum or sprocket showing signs of advanced wear must be replaced before it causes damage to other components or, worse, failure in a real world situation.
Chain and cable control
The chain is a crucial part of the anchoring system and deserves as thorough an inspection as the windlass itself. Unwind the chain gradually, examining each section, meter by meter. Look for links that are deformed, flattened, or have severe wear. A worn link generally has a visible thinning of the metal, particularly at the contact points. Measure the chain diameter in several places and compare it to the original specifications, as general wear and tear gradually reduces the diameter and therefore the strength. Also check the condition of the swivels and shackles that connect the chain to the anchor, making sure that their pins are in place and that the threads are not damaged. For textile cable, inspect its entire length for fraying, flattened parts, or areas with suspicious discoloration indicative of fiber degradation. Run your hand along the cable to detect irregularities or hard spots that would reveal internal damage. A damaged cable quickly loses its strength and can break under load, which is why it is important to replace it at the first sign of weakness.
Checking the fasteners and the bridge
The anchors of the windlass to the bridge are subjected to considerable stress, particularly when lifting an anchor that is firmly anchored in the bottom. Inspect each fastener bolt meticulously to ensure that they are properly tightened to the manufacturer's recommended torque. Use a torque wrench for this operation to ensure even and proper tightening, as overtightening can damage the threads or deform the bridge, while insufficient tightening allows movements that create fatigue in the materials. Carefully examine the bridge area around the fixings, looking for cracks, deformations, or signs of disrepair. On fiberglass bridges, check for delamination or soft areas that would indicate water infiltration or weakening of the structure. The reinforcements under the bridge deserve the same attention, as they distribute the loads and prevent the concentration of stresses that could tear the windlass away. On old installations, check the condition of the seals between the windlass and the bridge to prevent water from entering the living spaces. Do not hesitate to redo these joints if you notice any signs of deterioration or leaks.
Lubrication of moving parts
Parts to be lubricated (axles, gears, bearings)
Lubrication is the maintenance operation that contributes most directly to the longevity and proper functioning of windlass. The axes and pivots on which the various components rotate require particular attention. Apply the grease by rotating the mechanism slowly to allow the lubricant to penetrate all the gaps and remove the old contaminated grease. Gears, whether straight or conical, should be covered with a thin film of grease over the entire surface of the teeth. Avoid excess that will attract dust and abrasive particles, but ensure complete coverage. Ball or roller bearings generally require a specific grease, which is often more fluid than that used for gears. Consult manufacturer documentation for exact specifications. Some bearings are pre-lubricated and sealed, requiring no maintenance, while others have greasing points that allow fresh lubricant to be injected. The keys, pins and other connecting elements also benefit from slight lubrication to facilitate possible future dismantling and to prevent seizure.
Recommended products and mistakes to avoid
Choosing the right lubricant has a significant impact on maintenance efficiency. Choose marine greases specially formulated to resist salt water and maintain their lubricating properties in the presence of humidity. These greases contain anti-corrosion additives and maintain their consistency over a wide temperature range. For highly stressed gears, opt for a lithium-based grease enriched with molybdenum disulfide or graphite, which offers excellent resistance to high loads. Bearings often require a more fluid grease, such as NLGI 2 or 3, allowing better penetration while maintaining a durable protective film. Absolutely avoid generic lubricants that are not suitable for the marine environment, as they degrade quickly under the effect of salt water and can even promote corrosion. WD-40 penetrating oils, while useful for de-gripping a mechanism, are not long-lasting lubricants and should be followed by an appropriate grease application. The common mistake is to apply an excessive amount of grease which, under the effect of heat and rotation, is expelled and attracts sand and dust, creating a harmful abrasive paste. Apply the right amount to form a protective film without visible excess.
Electrical system control (electric windlass)
Status of cables and connections
The electrical system of a windlass consumes considerable intensities, often several hundred amperes when lifting an anchor under load. This intensity imposes strict requirements on the quality of cables and connections. Carefully inspect the entire power cable route from the batteries to the windlass motor. Check the cables for any abrasion, cuts, or areas where the insulation would be damaged. The cables must be properly secured throughout their journey to avoid friction against boat structures. Pay particular attention to passages through bulkheads where protectors must prevent direct contact between the cable and potentially sharp edges. The connections deserve special attention because they are the weak points in the circuit. Disassemble each connection and inspect the terminals for signs of oxidation, overheating, or deformation. The lugs should be securely crimped onto the cables and the contact surfaces should be shiny and free of corrosion. Clean the contacts with a fine wire brush or very fine sandpaper, then apply a special conductive grease to protect against future oxidation. Also, check that all clamps comply with the recommended torques, as a loose connection generates excessive resistance causing heating and power loss.
Checking the relay, circuit breaker, and motor
The power relay, often called a contactor or solenoid, powers up the motor when you activate the control. This element undergoes significant electrical stresses and wears out progressively. Listen carefully to the noise it makes when activated: a loud and clear click indicates normal operation, while a sizzling or hesitant noise suggests worn or dirty contacts. Visually inspect the relay, looking for signs of overheating or arc marks around the terminals. The high-current circuit breaker or fuse protects the circuit against dangerous overcurrents. Verify that it is properly calibrated according to the manufacturer's specifications and that it actually triggers during a test. A circuit breaker that never trips despite years of service deserves to be replaced preventively because the internal components degrade over time. Regarding the engine itself, on the vertical windlass, go to the engine compartment under the bridge and inspect it carefully. Look for traces of humidity, corrosion, or water ingress. On brushed motors, check the wear of the brushes and their freedom of movement in their guides. An engine in good condition runs regularly without jerks or abnormal noises, and does not emit any smell of overheating.
Control test (desk, remote control)
The windlass controls must respond instantly and reliably to every request. Test the fixed control panel, usually installed near the windlass, by activating the ascent, descent and freewheel functions in succession if it is electrically controlled. The buttons should have a clear action without requiring excessive pressure or repeated manipulation. The internal contacts of buttons oxidize over time, especially in the marine environment, creating resistances that affect operation. If you notice random or delayed responses, disassemble the desk and clean the contacts with an appropriate product or replace the faulty buttons. The wireless remote control, when equipped with your windlass, also requires regular checking. Test its range by gradually moving away from the windlass to the maximum distance of use. A reduction in range may indicate low batteries in the transmitter or a faulty receiver. Check the tightness of the remote control, especially the seals around the buttons and the housing, as water infiltration is the main cause of failure of this equipment. Replace the batteries in the remote control according to the manufacturer's recommendations, even if they still seem to be working, as failure in a real situation can be very problematic.
Specific maintenance according to the type of windlass
Maintenance of an electric windlass
The electric windlass requires special attention to its electronic and electrical components in addition to standard mechanical maintenance. The battery or battery bank dedicated to the windlass deserves constant monitoring, because the capacity to deliver intense currents depends directly on their state of charge and health. Check the electrolyte level on open batteries regularly and top up with distilled water if necessary. Measure the voltage at no load and under load to assess the true capacity of the batteries. Clean battery terminals and tighten connections to minimize stray resistances. The electric motor itself requires periodic inspection. On brushed motors, remove the access covers and check for brush wear, replacing them before they reach their minimum length of use. Examine the collector on which the brooms rub, checking for deep grooves or burnt areas. Brushless motors, which are more modern, mainly require monitoring of their connections and control electronics. Also, check that the braking system, whether electromagnetic or mechanical, is working properly, as it prevents the chain from spinning freely when the windlass is stationary. A faulty brake is a serious danger for the crew.
Maintaining a manual windlass
The manual windlass, although devoid of electrical components, nevertheless deserves a methodical maintenance focused on its mechanical aspects. The crank and its engagement system are the main points of attention. Make sure the crank fits and disengages easily without requiring excessive force or knocks. The ratchet or freewheel mechanism must work perfectly to prevent accidental roll-overs during ascent. Test it under light load by deliberately trying to make the windlass turn in the opposite direction: the ratchet should lock immediately and firmly. The ratchet teeth gradually wear out and may end up sliding, creating a dangerous situation. Lubricate the gear train abundantly because on a manual windlass, the multiplications are significant and the friction is significant. Use thick grease that adheres well to surfaces even under significant rotating movements. Check for gear wear by looking for broken, cracked, or excessively worn teeth. Also, inspect the bearings and bearings that support the axles, as they experience significant radial loads. Excessive play in these bearings affects transmission efficiency and accelerates overall wear and tear. Keep the crank in an accessible but secure place, as losing or not being available would completely deprive you of the use of the windlass.
Special case of windlasses exposed to seawater
Some boats have configurations where the windlass is particularly exposed to sea spray and packages, or even partially submerged when sailing upwind in the breeze. These windlass are subject to permanent aggression and require a reinforced maintenance protocol. Increase the frequency of rinsing with fresh water, ideally after each trip, and feel free to rinse thoroughly during the navigation itself if conditions permit. Apply additional corrosion protection to all exposed metal surfaces. Anticorrosion sprays forming a protective film are particularly suitable, provided they are renewed regularly because they degrade under the mechanical action of spray and salt. Also, increase the frequency of lubrication, as salt water emulsifies and breaks down fats quickly. Some owners install protective covers while sailing or in port to limit exposure, a solution that is particularly relevant during periods of prolonged inactivity. Consider applying special anti-corrosion paints or coatings to the most exposed metal parts, ensuring compatibility with existing materials. The seals between the various elements deserve increased monitoring because their failure would allow salt water to enter the internal mechanisms where it would cause considerable damage.
Common mistakes to avoid when maintaining a windlass
Use of unsuitable products
The use of products that are not specifically designed for the marine environment represents a costly and unfortunately frequent error. Standard automotive greases, although effective in their field, are not resistant to the action of salt water and degrade rapidly, losing their lubricating properties and sometimes forming pasty residues that interfere with operation. Aggressive solvents used for cleaning can attack joints, protective paints, and even some metals, creating more problems than they solve. Penetrating oils, while useful for de-gripping a mechanism, attract dust and sand when used as a permanent lubricant. Household cleaning products, especially those containing acidic or alkaline agents, can corrode metal surfaces or degrade plastic or rubber components. Even bleach, sometimes used to remove algae, attacks aluminum and stainless steel under certain conditions. Invest in products specifically formulated for the marine environment, with the appropriate certifications. Their slightly higher cost is amply justified by their effectiveness and the protection they offer to your equipment. Carefully read the instructions for use and follow the recommendations of the manufacturer of your windlass regarding compatible products.
Lack of lubrication or excess fat
Finding the right balance when it comes to lubrication is a delicate art. Undergreasing, the most dangerous error, condemns metal parts in direct contact to excessive friction generating heat, accelerated wear and the risk of seizure. Early signs include abnormal noises, jerks in movement, and a rise in temperature that is noticeable when touched. The complete seizure of a windlass while maneuvering creates a potentially dangerous situation and often requires the replacement of expensive components. Conversely, excess fat also causes significant problems. Excess fat is expelled by rotation and pressure, forming unsightly drips that immediately attract dust, sand, and other particles in the environment. These particles mix with grease to form an abrasive paste that accelerates wear instead of preventing it. Excess grease can also migrate to areas where it doesn't belong, such as electrical contacts or brake friction surfaces. Good practice is to apply a moderate amount of grease, sufficient to form a visible protective film but without apparent excess, and then to top up regularly during periodic maintenance rather than flooding the mechanism once a year.
Neglecting the chain or anchor
The windlass can only function properly with a chain that is in good condition, sized and maintained according to specifications. Many boaters focus their attention on the windlass itself while neglecting the chain, which is an integral part of the system. A worn chain, with thinned or deformed links, slips into the sprocket cells and causes erratic functioning. This situation forces the windlass to work more intensively, accelerating its wear and risking damage to the sprocket. The rusted chain not only has reduced mechanical strength, but it also deposits abrasive oxides on the sprocket, contributing to its premature wear. The anchor itself deserves attention, as a damaged or deformed anchor can behave unpredictably during ascent, creating violent jolts that put excessive stress on the windlass. Regularly check that the anchor is properly attached to the chain, that the swivel rotates freely, and that the shackle is properly closed with its pin in place. Inspect the anchor arms for cracks or deformations. A well-maintained anchor, combined with a chain in perfect condition, allows the windlass to function in optimal conditions and extends its life considerably.
Force the windlass to charge
The most damaging mistake is forcing the windlass when it encounters abnormal resistance. This situation typically occurs when the anchor is embedded in the bottom, caught under a rock, or entangled in its own chain. The natural temptation is to insist by keeping the control activated, hoping that the power of the windlass will eventually overcome the resistance. This practice subjects all components to excessive stress, overheats the electric motor, wears out the gears prematurely, and can even structurally damage the bridge or fasteners. The windlass is sized to carry up the weight of the chain and anchor, plus a reasonable margin of safety, but certainly not to pull off an engraved anchor or lift the entire boat. When you encounter unusual resistance, stop the windlass immediately and analyze the situation. Often, it is enough to maneuver the boat slightly to change the pull angle and release the anchor. Sometimes, an inspection dive reveals the exact nature of the problem and allows it to be resolved. As a last resort, if the anchor gets stuck irretrievably, it is better to sacrifice the anchor and the chain than to damage the windlass. Use a recovery line to try to release the anchor from the boat's engine, which has much more power and is designed to withstand such efforts.
When should you call in a professional?
Signs that indicate a serious problem
Some symptoms are not misleading and indicate that a problem is beyond the scope of routine maintenance. A windlass that produces abnormal noises, such as metallic squeaks, repeated clicks, or excessive vibrations, is likely suffering from a mechanical problem that requires technical intervention. A gradual loss of power, where the windlass has difficulty lifting loads that it previously managed easily, suggests either a major electrical problem or significant wear and tear on mechanical components. An abnormally high power consumption, detectable by excessive heating of the cables or frequent tripping of the circuit breaker, generally reveals an insulation defect in the motor or excessive resistance in the circuit. Oil or grease leaks from normally sealed areas indicate faulty seals or cracks in the crankcase. A significant detectable play in rotation, where the sprocket rotates freely over a certain angle before driving the chain, suggests advanced wear of the gears or keys. Finally, any smell of burning or observation of smoke coming from the windlass requires an immediate stop and a professional inspection, as these symptoms generally precede a major failure or even present a risk of fire.
Complete overhauls and complex repairs
Some maintenance operations exceed the skills or tools of the average boater and justify the use of a qualified professional. Completely disassembling the windlass to access the internal components requires specific tools, precise knowledge of the procedure, and often an appropriate work environment. Operations involving the high-current electrical system require marine electrical skills and the ability to perform accurate resistance, voltage, and current measurements. Replacing the electric motor requires not only dismantling but also the choice of a compatible motor and its installation according to the standards in force. Structural repairs to bridge attachments, especially when they involve work on fibreglass or wooden decks, require specialized shipbuilding skills. The rewinding of an electric motor, an economically viable operation on large units, must imperatively be entrusted to a specialist. Likewise, the grinding of a worn sprocket or the replacement of internal gears requires a precision of adjustment that an amateur cannot generally guarantee. An innovative solution such as the Oria Marine IoT box makes it possible to continuously monitor the electrical parameters of your windlass and to anticipate certain problems before they become critical, thus facilitating the decision to intervene professionally at the right time.
Benefits of a professional interview
Entrusting the periodic maintenance of your windlass to a qualified professional has many advantages beyond the simple execution of technical operations. The professional has experience that allows him to quickly identify emerging problems that the untrained eye could overlook. His expertise covers all types of windlass and all brands, giving him access to an extensive knowledge base on typical failures and their solutions. It also has specialized tools to perform delicate operations or requiring precise measurements. Access to original spare parts is another significant advantage, as professionals generally maintain direct relationships with manufacturers and can obtain the appropriate components, even for older models. The guarantee of the work done also provides significant peace of mind: if a problem occurs following the intervention, the professional assumes responsibility for it. Finally, a documented professional maintenance, with an invoice detailing the operations carried out, enhances the value of your boat in the event of resale and demonstrates the seriousness of general maintenance. To optimize this approach, alternate between routine maintenance that you carry out yourself and complete reviews carried out by a professional according to a set schedule.
Tips for extending the life of your windlass
Good practices for use at anchor
How you use your windlass on a daily basis has a direct influence on its longevity. When lowering the anchor, let the chain run under its own weight by simply controlling the speed with the brake, rather than using the motor to actively descend. This practice considerably reduces the wear and tear of mechanical components and electrical consumption. When you lift the anchor, proceed in fits and starts rather than in continuous traction: move the boat forward slightly with the motor to relax the chain, then pull up a little bit of chain, and repeat the operation. This technique minimizes the effort required of the windlass and facilitates the unlocking of the anchor. Never let the weight of the boat rest on the windlass at anchor: once the anchor is raised to the top position, secure the chain with a cleat or an independent stop that takes over the load. The windlass is not designed to permanently withstand the significant tensions created by the boat at anchor, and this practice prematurely wears out the brake and the internal mechanisms. Also, avoid running the windlass for long periods of time without interruption, as the electric motor heats up and loses efficiency. If you have to wind up a long length of chain, take regular breaks to allow the engine to cool.
Off-season storage and protection
The extended period of wintering or decommissioning offers the opportunity to effectively protect your windlass against environmental aggressions. After completing the full annual maintenance, apply a generous layer of protective grease to all external metal surfaces, creating a barrier against moisture and oxygen. Some owners install a protective cover on the windlass during wintering, a particularly relevant solution if the boat stays outside. These specific covers, made of UV-resistant and breathable material to avoid condensation, protect effectively against bad weather. On electric windlass, disconnect the batteries to avoid parasitic discharges and to protect the electronic components from voltage variations. Some professionals even recommend dismantling the engine on the vertical windlass to store it in a dry and temperate place during the winter. If your boat stays in the water during the winter, check the condition of the windlass regularly, ideally every two to three weeks, to quickly detect any emerging problems. Activate the windlass briefly during these visits to maintain the mobility of the components and avoid seizure. This winter attention is particularly important in regions where temperature variations cause intensive condensation.
Importance of regular and preventive maintenance
Preventive maintenance, carried out according to a set schedule rather than in response to problems, is the most economical and reliable approach to keeping your windlass in perfect condition. This maintenance philosophy is based on foresight rather than correction, replacing wear parts before they fail, lubricating before friction damages surfaces, and inspecting before small problems become major failures. Establish a maintenance log detailing all the operations carried out with their dates, thus creating a valuable history to follow the evolution of the windlass's condition and anticipate future interventions. This documentation also facilitates the resale of the boat by demonstrating the seriousness of the maintenance. Carefully follow the manufacturer's recommendations for maintenance intervals and part specifications, as they are the result of extensive studies and field experience. Never wait for a problem to occur to take action: the cost and inconvenience of a failure always outweigh the time and money invested in preventive maintenance. This proactive approach turns windlass maintenance from a dreaded chore into a reassuring routine, giving you the confidence that your equipment will be there when you need it.
FAQ — Windlass maintenance
How often should windlass be maintained?
Maintenance frequency depends on the intensity of use and navigation conditions. For regular use, rinse the windlass in fresh water after each trip, perform monthly maintenance including inspection and lubrication, and perform a complete service annually. Boats used intensively or in difficult conditions (very salty waters, sandy areas, navigation in the Mediterranean in summer) require more frequent maintenance. Conversely, an infrequently used boat can space out monthly maintenance while maintaining the rinsing routine after each use and the annual revision. The important thing is to establish a schedule adapted to your situation and to respect it rigorously.
How do you clean a windlass properly after a sea trip?
Start by rinsing the windlass thoroughly in fresh water, paying particular attention to the sprocket, corners, and any surfaces exposed to salt. Use a garden hose with moderate pressure or a bucket of fresh water if running water is not available. Manually rotate the windlass while rinsing to reach all surfaces of the sprocket. For stubborn dirt, use a soft nylon brush and possibly a mild degreaser specific to the marine environment, rinsing thoroughly after application. Avoid high-pressure jets that could force water into bearings and seals. Finish by wiping surfaces with a clean cloth to remove excess water and speed up drying.
What type of grease should I use to lubricate a windlass?
Choose marine grease that is specifically formulated to resist salt water and maintain its lubricating properties in humid environments. Lithium-based greases enriched with anti-corrosion additives are ideal. For highly stressed gears, opt for greases containing molybdenum disulfide or graphite that offer excellent resistance to high loads. The bearings generally require a slightly more fluid type NLGI 2 or 3 grease. Always consult your windlass manufacturer's documentation for the exact recommended specifications. Absolutely avoid standard automotive greases, penetrating oils used alone, and any product that is not specifically designed for the marine environment.
How do you know if the windlass motor is in bad condition?
There are several signs that an engine is in poor condition. A gradual loss of power, where the windlass has difficulty lifting loads that it easily managed, suggests an engine problem. Abnormal noises such as squeaks, excessive vibrations, or hums often indicate worn bearings or failed brushes. Excessive heating of the motor or the power cables generally reveals an overcurrent caused by abnormal resistance or a defect in insulation. A burning smell or the observation of smoke requires an immediate stop. An abnormally high power consumption, measurable by an ammeter, confirms a problem. Finally, an engine that starts with difficulty or jerks requires a thorough inspection of its internal components and electrical connections.
Can a windlass be used without regular maintenance?
Technically, a windlass will continue to operate for some time without maintenance, but this approach poses considerable risks. Lack of maintenance dramatically accelerates component wear, increases the risk of sudden failure, and can turn a minor problem into a major costly failure. A neglected windlass can fail at a critical moment, for example during an emergency anchoring in bad weather, putting the crew and the boat at risk. The lack of lubrication causes mechanisms to seize up, untreated corrosion weakens metal structures, and oxidized electrical connections can cause dangerous short circuits. Regular maintenance is therefore not optional but is an obligation for any responsible owner wishing to navigate safely.
What are the signs of wear on a sprocket?
A worn sprocket has several characteristic symptoms. The cells that guide the chain lose their original profile, become smoother and shallower. You can check this by placing a chain link in each cell: it must fit securely there without excessive play. A worn sprocket lets the chain slide slightly into the cells, producing jolts during ascent and characteristic metallic noises. The chain can also jump out of the cells under load, a critical sign of advanced wear. The appearance of metal burrs, chips, or cracks on the sprocket also indicates a necessary replacement. Measure the depth of the cells and compare it to the original specifications if possible. A sprocket with a reduction in cell depth of more than thirty percent should be replaced preventively.
Do you have to dismantle the windlass for annual maintenance?
Complete disassembly is generally not required for the standard annual maintenance of a windlass in good condition. Partial disassembly allowing access to the main components is sufficient in most cases: removal of the top cover on horizontal windlass, access to the engine compartment on vertical windlass. This intervention makes it possible to clean the gears, check the condition of the bearings, relubricate the moving parts and inspect the electrical components. However, a complete dismantling is required during the five-year maintenance or if you notice specific problems that require a thorough inspection. This complex operation requires technical skills, appropriate tools and ideally the assistance of the manufacturer's technical documentation. For most boaters, entrusting this complete dismantling to a professional is the best choice.
How much does it cost to maintain a windlass by a professional?
The cost of professional maintenance varies considerably depending on the type of windlass, the extent of operations, and the geographic region. Routine maintenance including cleaning, lubrication and quick inspection generally costs between 150 and 300 euros. A complete overhaul with partial dismantling, replacement of standard wear parts and extensive tests is rather between 400 and 800 euros. Major interventions such as replacing an electric motor, repairing the electrical system or changing a sprocket can reach 1,000 to 2,000 euros depending on the complexity. These costs generally include labor and consumables, with spare parts being billed additionally. To obtain an accurate quote, contact several professionals by describing exactly your windlass and the required operations. Some shipyards offer annual maintenance packages including several boat equipment, allowing significant savings to be made.
